By Kim Marshall

We just returned from a wonderful, 20-day family trip to Europe in the summer. Since, no matter how much you plot and plan, something always comes up, perhaps my fellow AGEIST readers could benefit from our lessons learned. Here are a selection of takeaways that could help make your next European adventure just a bit more enjoyable: 

Economy Plus Is a Plus

My husband and I first traveled from LA to Lisbon, and we were very happy we paid for Economy Plus. In fact, that upgrade somehow gave us First Class from Montreal to Lisbon with nearly lie-flat seats. It might have just been the equipment available for that flight, but we were delighted with the outcome. 

Still a Value

Portugal is not the bargain it was a few years ago. However, there is still lots of value for the “dollar,” especially when it comes to seafood, wine, and Uber rides.

Portugal’s French Riviera

We stayed in an enchanting suburb of Lisbon called Cascais. This is the port where Columbus arrived after his first voyage to the Americas. It is also the city of royalty considered the “French Riviera of Portugal.”  The mayor is also working to make the seafront city known as a “City of Wellness.” This is largely thanks to its fresh ocean breezes and walk- and bike-ability. Shopping in the harbor-front town is very European. Local stores took us down winding, narrow pedestrian streets. There, we were happy to find an affordable Asian massage shop. A foot massage helped us recover from jet lag and prep for more walking.

Check for Local Holidays

Porto is always wonderful, but it’s good to check dates for public holidays in Europe before your trip. We happened to be there over the weekend of the country’s independence day, and the city was extra crowded. On our self-guided walking tour of the city, I was hoping the beautiful, 148-feet-high Dom Luís Bridge — built in 1877 by Teófilo Seyrig, the partner of Eiffel (yes, that Eiffel!) over the Douro River — could take the weight of both the tram and the shoulder-to-shoulder pedestrians crossing at the same time. But the people seemed happy to be there, and the view was glorious! 

Check Your Departure & Arrival Dates

Our son just started in a new graduate program in New York, and this was his first time to Europe. He was to meet us in Milan but, unfortunately, he only read the arrival day & time for his flight (of the very detailed trip itinerary his mother sent him). Thus, he assumed that day was also his departure date. Needless to say, we were so very grateful we used the services of an experienced travel planner for our trip. She quickly responded to our panicked texts and found a smart flight-fix for us. It was easy to meet him a day later in Florence.  

Baggage Fees for International Flights

I brought a very small extra rolling carry-on right before leaving home. I thought I’d stuff my little backpack purse in it, and fit the two-item onboard allowance. Sadly, it did not, and I had to check a nearly empty suitcase. Good news: That meant we had a space for shopping treasures we purchased on the trip. Bad news: While United Airlines from LAX to Lisbon allowed two checked bags at no extra cost, I was shocked to find out that Lufthansa — who handled our return flight under their code-share program — charged 94 Euros for the second bag at the counter! New rule: ALWAYS check in bags ahead of time to save $!!

Choose Upgrades From Discount Carriers

In spite of warnings from friends, we took a chance and flew the budget Europe airline, Ryanair, from Porto to Milan. Luckily, it was absolutely fine. We would recommend upgrading to whatever they offer. In the end, this meant paying $110 for a $25 flight but it was well worth it. We enjoyed Priority Boarding, savings on advance-checked bags, reserved seating, etc. 

Two-in-One Laundry: Too Good to Be True

Our Airbnb in Milan was so adorable and the host was amazingly attentive and helpful. It was a 15-minute subway ride to the city center, and we heeded the advice to be on alert for pickpockets. But we didn’t prepare for another time stealer: turns out those modern-looking two-in-one washer/dryers are actually too good to be true. We found out the hard way that it takes about 3 hours to dry one load in those machines AND the instructions are SO complicated, that we washed the load twice by accident, wasting precious drying time that might have prevented us from taking damp clothes on the train to Florence. (Side note, we found the most adorable, tiny laundromat across from a coffee shop that was a five-minute walk from the main Florence train station to dry our clothes.) 

It’s All in the Timing

Florence is crowded but fabulous and the gelato is amazing. Our Airbnb would not allow us to drop off our bags until 3pm but there were lots of locker options. The most convenient of which is at the central train station. Fortunately, our visit coincided with the annual PITTI UOMO Europe men’s fashion trade show in the city – much to the delight of the two men in my life. (Think walking into a GQ magazine shoot.) If you have a pass/badge to the show, there is no fee for checking your luggage there or the train station. We found that a great way to avoid the crowds is to take an after-dinner gelato-and-sightseeing walk past the famous sites and along the moonlit river.

BEST KEPT SECRET IN EUROPE FOR FASHIONISTAS

Civitanova Marche – Have you ever heard of it before? We hadn’t. It’s a four-hour train ride from Florence on the Adriatic and it’s a favorite weekend beach getaway for Italians. And, right outside the city are the factories that manufacture clothes, shoes, and purses for the likes of Hermès, Max Mara, Prada, etc. Every Saturday there is a fashion market with unbelievable bargains. Our friend works in the industry and guided us to all the best stalls. I bought slip-on leather mules from the factory that makes Hermès sandals that retail for about $700 – for $50!! My husband got a $3,000 suit for $300. And that’s not to mention the factory outlet stores where we got cute linen pants, my husband and son got a “butter” leather jacket for $250, and I found a leather crossbody bag for $50. I could go on … 

A Natural Wonder

Part of our itinerary was attending a convention in Helsinki, Finland. It wasn’t my first choice for a travel destination in Europe but, geez, was I wrong. Prices are certainly higher than Portugal, but it is simply gorgeous. A few memories: unpronounceable names everywhere; a highly efficient and easy tram system paid for with an app; fresh veggies and fruits with most every meal; and coffee, coffee, coffee everywhere. Don’t miss the harbor-front open-air market for handmade jewelry, carved wooden utensils, canvas bags from the famous Finnish designer Marimekko (for 25 Euros), and good seafood stalls for an al fresco lunch. We took a 45-minute boat ride to one of the 330 islands that are part of the Helsinki archipelago, and the air, the trees, and the sunshine were all simply stunning.

It seems that nature is on steroids all over the country: the trees are about 5 stories high and looked oh so healthy; the tap water is so clear and clean that Finns brag that you could bottle it and sell it; and they don’t call it a “sauna culture” for nothing — most homes have saunas and, to locals, taking a daily or thrice weekly at least sauna is almost a religious experience. I interviewed a father and his preteen son about the proper way to sauna and they were so adorably serious in their responses. I interviewed another local – a professor at a nearby university – that has belonged to a harbor-front sauna for 8 years. She said she goes every day for about 90 minutes and that it is a choice she makes to prioritize her health, so she has something to give back to others. I “sauna-ed” three different times in six days and felt vibrant and healthy throughout. 

Where to Stay

Choosing lodging is such a personal thing depending on budget, location & style.  Here are our favorite choices from our recentEuropean trip that we have a hunch might appeal to you too: 

Cascais, Portugal — Farol Hotel is a 19th-century private mansion that was once owned by the Count of Cabral.  Set on oceanfront cliffs, this Preferred Hotel is 35 minutes from Lisbon Airport and a ten-minute walk to the quaint cobblestone streets of the downtown harbor area.  Featuring smile-inducing whimsical art, a popular sushi restaurant and a saltwater pool, the best part of this boutique getaway is its delightful, welcoming staff. 

Alentejo, Portugal – A 90-minute drive from Lisbon into the country’s newest wine tourism region brings you to the 37-roomHerdade da Barrosinha Hotel, located in the heart of a nearly 5000-acre historic farm and winery minutes from the river and the beach. The low-rise buildings and craft-forward décor make the place a serene basecamp for family getaways and activities like kayaking, biking horseback riding and of course wine tasting. 

Porto, Portugal — Vila na Praia Foz Luxury Apartments were the best of look & location.  A cross between an apartment, an ARBNB and a boutique hotel, the bright and charming Villa-with-a-view is only ten minutes by bus from the city center, directly in front of the river and a short walk to a wide range of quaint local cafés with a view. 

Milan, Italy – A 15-minute Metro ride to the city center, we loved our orange-accented, two-story ARBNB facing an apartment building courtyard at Via Legnone, 86. The host was so accommodating and patient – leaving welcome Prosecco and being available by text nearly 24/7. 

Civitanova Marche, Italy – ARBNB Via Gondola, 47 – so convenient to the town square, the famous open-air clothing market and the city’s lively beach scene. Favorite features: a very helpful host and an adorable balcony with a clothes drying rack that made us feel like locals. 

Helsinki, Finland — Crowne Plaza. This was our second choice of the options we were sent as convention attendees, but we now know that this was the ideal hotel for us during our weeklong stay. Situated in front of a park, minutes from the tram line, it also offered a fitness floor with a Finnish sauna and pool and a lavish and healthy breakfast buffet every morning. (The latte machine was great too!) 

Finally

I’m glad we avoided Barcelona. Seems the locals have had just about enough of over-tourism.