“Black women should not remove the kinks from their hair, but the kinks from their mind”( Marcus Garvey).
Art by XR Jamaica

“Black women should not remove the kinks from their hair, but the kinks from their mind”( Marcus Garvey).

Identity and self perception plays a critical role in how black women perceive themselves and their social world, which manifest itself in how they choose to wear their hair. This awareness has influenced a variety of hairstyles in the form of weave, wigs, dreads, natural and chemically processed hair. However, the wearing of natural hair has not been fully accepted in the black community and mainstream society, and is viewed as a threat to the Eurocentric standard of beauty . It’s an ideology that is deep rooted in many issues stemming from slavery to present day.

Prior to the transatlantic slave trade, African hair was a significant feature of African culture and the virgin, unprocessed hair was a vision of pride, art, spirituality, and community(Patton, 2006;Sieber & Herreman, 2000). African hair texture is unique and diverse and is a symbol of Homo sapiens adaptive ability in response to hot temperatures produced by the sun.

Ethnic and racial identity has cultural implications that forms the conceptual framework which connects the vulnerability of black women wearing their natural hair. The negro hair is often rejected , both within a professional and social context and the black community. It’s a story embedded in politics, slavery and the socialisation of the black women. Johnson et al (2017), found majority of employers, varying races and genders, held biases toward black women who wore their natural hair.

Racial micro-aggressions are subtle signs of racism black women encounter on a daily basis and are visible in the languages used to describe the negro hair ( picky or nappy) , which is an attack on the black identity. School policies are instrumental in the racist discourse by banning students from wearing their natural braids, twist or plaits in countries in the Caribbean.

Hair texture prejudice was an element of the racism black women faced in the United States( Pyke, 2010). The Jim Crows 1870-1960 reinforced the narratives the negro hair and dark skin female were unattractive and undesirable. The Civil Rights movement of the 1960s was an emblem for black pride and the afro hair was a symbol of human rights and a political statement ( Robinson, 2011)

Black women who choose to wear their natural hair are redefining the standard beauty ideals. The wearing of the natural hair is empowering, invoking values of self-love and self-confidence. However, the lack of acceptance from the black community can create deep psychological struggles for many regarding beauty, identity and acceptance.

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